On Friday we visited a part of China that I had no idea existed. I have traveled around China quite a bit, and read even more about it, so it's rare for me to be caught completely by surprise. We drove three hours north of Xi'an, which was already kind of in the middle of nowhere, to a tiny village that was really in the middle of nowhere.
The Loess Plateau covers an area of northern China equivalent to the area of Belgium, mostly along the upper reaches of the Yangtze River. The geography of the plateau is extraordinary. Summer temperatures are regularly above 100 degrees Fahrenheit, while winter temperatures are below –20. The soil is incredibly dry and fine, but much heavier than sand. This extra weight is due to the fact that the plateau is not a desert – there is a three-month monsoon season in the autumn that drowns the world, though the rest of the year is very dry. These extreme rains have shaped the plateau into a series of ravines along the Yangtze, and allowed a substantial amount of agriculture to flourish. The hillsides have all been shaped into terraces, and every little possible patch of land is cultivated. Thus, the Loess Plateau supports a population of about 40 million, remarkable for an area of poor access and scarce resources. Despite it’s size, population, and beauty, I had no idea this place existed. Check out the view on the right!
This region of extremes is notable for some of the most and least sustainable practices in China. The intensive agriculture required because of population pressure causes substantial erosion and silting in the Yangtze River that creates flooding problems downstream. This is a huge
problem for China as a whole. However, the people of the Loess Plateau have also evolved an incredibly material- and energy-efficient housing form, and this is what we traveled to Henan Province, Da Ping Zhuang (Great Peace Village) in order to see. To cope with the unusual conditions of their region, the Loess Plateau inhabitants have evolved a truly remarkable form of vernacular architecture. Similar to the adobe cliffside dwellings of the first peoples of the American southwest, the residents of the Loess Plateau build
yaodongs, underground cave-like housing of astonishing complexity and beauty. At left, looking
down from the ground level into the courtyard of the house of an extended family. Each door off the main area is a bedroom, storage area, or little barn.
The villagers came from miles around to meet us. They were overwhelmingly warm and welcoming, and by the time we left, several of the students had to be dragged back onto the bus. I could see the appeal. Inside the rooms, it felt air conditioned, even though it was 100 degrees outside. The houses were mostly over 300 years old, i.e. older than the United States, but many were still habitable. The rooms were plain but cozy, and the village was full of adorable children and fruit trees. The outdoor cooking facilities were minimal but efficient. It's clearly a harsh life, but very attractive to city-weary students. At right, a view of one of the rooms. The bed on the left is made of brick, and can be heated on the inside like an oven in the winter.
The Loess Plateau covers an area of northern China equivalent to the area of Belgium, mostly along the upper reaches of the Yangtze River. The geography of the plateau is extraordinary. Summer temperatures are regularly above 100 degrees Fahrenheit, while winter temperatures are below –20. The soil is incredibly dry and fine, but much heavier than sand. This extra weight is due to the fact that the plateau is not a desert – there is a three-month monsoon season in the autumn that drowns the world, though the rest of the year is very dry. These extreme rains have shaped the plateau into a series of ravines along the Yangtze, and allowed a substantial amount of agriculture to flourish. The hillsides have all been shaped into terraces, and every little possible patch of land is cultivated. Thus, the Loess Plateau supports a population of about 40 million, remarkable for an area of poor access and scarce resources. Despite it’s size, population, and beauty, I had no idea this place existed. Check out the view on the right!
This region of extremes is notable for some of the most and least sustainable practices in China. The intensive agriculture required because of population pressure causes substantial erosion and silting in the Yangtze River that creates flooding problems downstream. This is a huge problem for China as a whole. However, the people of the Loess Plateau have also evolved an incredibly material- and energy-efficient housing form, and this is what we traveled to Henan Province, Da Ping Zhuang (Great Peace Village) in order to see. To cope with the unusual conditions of their region, the Loess Plateau inhabitants have evolved a truly remarkable form of vernacular architecture. Similar to the adobe cliffside dwellings of the first peoples of the American southwest, the residents of the Loess Plateau build yaodongs, underground cave-like housing of astonishing complexity and beauty. At left, looking down from the ground level into the courtyard of the house of an extended family. Each door off the main area is a bedroom, storage area, or little barn.
The villagers came from miles around to meet us. They were overwhelmingly warm and welcoming, and by the time we left, several of the students had to be dragged back onto the bus. I could see the appeal. Inside the rooms, it felt air conditioned, even though it was 100 degrees outside. The houses were mostly over 300 years old, i.e. older than the United States, but many were still habitable. The rooms were plain but cozy, and the village was full of adorable children and fruit trees. The outdoor cooking facilities were minimal but efficient. It's clearly a harsh life, but very attractive to city-weary students. At right, a view of one of the rooms. The bed on the left is made of brick, and can be heated on the inside like an oven in the winter.
1 comment:
This is fascinating. Loved your narrative and wonderful photos. What an incredible summer adventure!
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